Historical Costume ~ Women's Civil War
1845 ~ 1869..... is characterized by an increase in the width of women's skirts supported by crinolines or hoops. Wider bell-shaped or pagoda sleeves were worn over false undersleeves or engageantes of cotton or linen, trimmed in lace. Evening gowns were very low-necked, falling off the shoulders, and had short sleeves. The introduction of the steel cage crinoline in 1856 provided a means for expanding the skirt still further, and flounces gradually disappeared in favor of a skirt lying more smoothly over the petticoat and hoops. Pantalettes were essential under this new fashion for modesty's sake.
Ballgown ca. 1865. "The straw embroidery on this dress makes it particularly spectacular worn over a crinoline," says Europeana blog about photo (by Christa Losta), from the Vienna Museum.
Day dress ca. 1861-63. Museum of London - Pattern in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion
An ivory silk faille bridal gown, circa 1871, the bodice and waistband of skirt applied with 'Grand Magasins de la Paix' stamped labels, the bodice with bell-shaped sleeves, jacket-like bodice with curved basque, adorned with Brussels lace and ivory cord passementerie; the apron-type overskirt similarly adorned, over plain faille trained skirt with integral ruched gathers to the rear in the area to take a bustle
Medici cage crinoline “with improver”, late 1860’s-early 1870’s Does anyone know what a Medici cage crinoline is? Is it maybe a brand or model name? Click to go to the absentee bidding page. This Kerry Taylor auction will end October 16th at 10:30 AM GMT (5:30 AM EST). You will need to register to bid ahead of time.
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Evening Gown 1861, American, Made of velvet, satin, and lace~~~This outfit believed to have been made by African American dressmaker Elizabeth Keckly and worn by the first lady during the winter social season of 1861–62. All three pieces are piped with white satin. The daytime bodice is trimmed with mother-of pearl buttons. Its lace collar is of the period but is not original to the bodice. The evening bodice is trimmed with lace and chenille fringed braid.
Promenade dress | American | The Metropolitan Museum of Art
(1of 2 views) 1855-1865 American silk dress. Military-style decoration was recapitulated in civilian clothing, as seen in the front closure, shoulders, and cuffs of the bodice of this dress, although the actual decoration is here deliberately feminized. What might have been bullion fringe becomes delicate mother-of-pearl spangles. Via MMA.
Dress | American | The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Muff and Collar Set 1855, British, Made of silk and fur
Poke Bonnet 1865, American, Made of silk, straw, and cotton~~~~~Poke bonnets, named for their small crown and large brim that extends past the face, shielded the profile of the wearer and provided for ample surface area for decoration. With its exuberant ribbon detail, this cheerful bonnet exudes youthfulness and the enchantment of spring. The feminine flourish of the decoration invites the passerby to see who is hiding beneath the brim of the bonnet.
Two Dresses Left, for Spring/Summer: early 1860's, American, silk taffeta and fringe, cotton undersleeves and cotton lace collar. Right, for Fall/Winter: 1865, American, silk taffeta with cotton lace collar. "These American copies of French fashions are evidence of how rapidly information about current styles was disseminated in the nineteenth century. Readers across America were informed of current fashions in Godey's Lady's Book and other subscription magazines..."
Dress (left) 1860, American, Made of silk, cotton, and lace~~~~~Dress (right) 1865, American, Made of silk and cotton