Historical Costume ~ Women's Civil War
1845 ~ 1869..... is characterized by an increase in the width of women's skirts supported by crinolines or hoops. Wider bell-shaped or pagoda sleeves were worn over false undersleeves or engageantes of cotton or linen, trimmed in lace. Evening gowns were very low-necked, falling off the shoulders, and had short sleeves. The introduction of the steel cage crinoline in 1856 provided a means for expanding the skirt still further, and flounces gradually disappeared in favor of a skirt lying more smoothly over the petticoat and hoops. Pantalettes were essential under this new fashion for modesty's sake.
Day dress ca. 1861-63. Museum of London - Pattern in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion
An ivory silk faille bridal gown, circa 1871, the bodice and waistband of skirt applied with 'Grand Magasins de la Paix' stamped labels, the bodice with bell-shaped sleeves, jacket-like bodice with curved basque, adorned with Brussels lace and ivory cord passementerie; the apron-type overskirt similarly adorned, over plain faille trained skirt with integral ruched gathers to the rear in the area to take a bustle, bust 76cm, 30in, waist 51cm, 20in (3)
EMBROIDERED SILK DAY DRESS, c. 1865 1-piece sage green faille w/ matching belt, tan & ivory floral hand done embroidery, crochet buttons, B 34", W 26", L 57"-72", (1 missing & torn button hole, pink surface stains in F skirt, light underarm stains, several seams open & hem cord unstitched In places) very good. BM
Kerry Taylor Auctions Archives
Evening Gown 1861, American, Made of velvet, satin, and lace~~~This outfit believed to have been made by African American dressmaker Elizabeth Keckly and worn by the first lady during the winter social season of 1861–62. All three pieces are piped with white satin. The daytime bodice is trimmed with mother-of pearl buttons. Its lace collar is of the period but is not original to the bodice. The evening bodice is trimmed with lace and chenille fringed braid.
Promenade dress | American | The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Dress | American | The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Muff and Collar Set 1855, British, Made of silk and fur
Poke Bonnet 1865, American, Made of silk, straw, and cotton~~~~~Poke bonnets, named for their small crown and large brim that extends past the face, shielded the profile of the wearer and provided for ample surface area for decoration. With its exuberant ribbon detail, this cheerful bonnet exudes youthfulness and the enchantment of spring. The feminine flourish of the decoration invites the passerby to see who is hiding beneath the brim of the bonnet.
Dress (left) 1860, American, Made of silk, cotton, and lace~~~~~Dress (right) 1865, American, Made of silk and cotton