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Doublet, early 1620s, French, silk This extraordinary doublet is one of only two surviving examples of its type from the 1620s. The only other known doublet of this kind is in the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. Made of silk embellished with pinking and decorative slits, this doublet followed a fashion that existed barely five years. Pinking, or the intentional slashing of fabric, was a popular decorative technique used to reveal colorful linings, shirts, and chemises.
Wams of noble boy made in 1555 is now shown in © Kunsthistorische Museum Vienna
The garment has the shape of a dalmatica (a loose unbelted garment with full sleeves) with a narrow upper body, sleeves that narrow towards the lower edge, and a skirt that broadens towards the hem because of lateral inserts. Samite (incised silk) was the material used for both the plain blue and the patterned red of the hem and cuffs - dyed with indigo and madder (vegetable dyes). Mentioned in documents of both 1350 and 1246. Vienna Museum