Caroline Bolles Cleveland wore this dress to President Lincoln’s inaugural ball in 1861. Connecticut Historical Society

Caroline Bolles Cleveland wore this dress to President Lincoln’s inaugural ball in 1861. Connecticut Historical Society

Day dress, early 1860s. Purple and white striped silk taffeta set of bodice and skirt, worn over crinoline. Pagoda sleeves with bows; frills on bodice and hem of skirt. Kyoto Costume Institute

Day dress, early 1860s. Purple and white striped silk taffeta set of bodice and skirt, worn over crinoline. Pagoda sleeves with bows; frills on bodice and hem of skirt. Kyoto Costume Institute

A gingham silk taffeta gown ca. 1865, with an 18-inch waistline. FIDM via Irenebrination

A gingham silk taffeta gown ca. 1865, with an 18-inch waistline. FIDM via Irenebrination

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