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Michael Bao Huynh, a former boat person who learned to cook by his mother's side at her restaurant in Saigon, served this dish at his restaurant BarBao on the Upper West Side.

THIS RECIPE IS NOT AUTHENTIC, but worth trying.Michael Bao Huynh, who learned to cook by his mother's side at her restaurant in Saigon, served this dish at his restaurant BarBao on the Upper West Side. (Photo: Michael Falco for The New York Times)