Madeleine Vionnet Dress, 1922 Silk crepe georgette with lamé edging. Arizona Costume Institute . Vionnet, a genius seamstress who built her dresses from the ground up so to speak, by cutting fabric on the bias, directly on her models. The final look was a unique feminine drape which heralded a new look that emphasized freedom of movement and femininity. Even with the popular garcon look [ flat chested and tubular ] the Vionnet dress was unmistakably feminine.