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Mariano Fortuny: “Delphos” dress ca. 1920 via Whitaker Auctions; the pleated gowns of Fortuny were usually made in bright solid colors
"Delphos" Dress, Mariano Fortuny (Spanish, 1871-1949): 1920's, pleated silk. "Fortuny worked with a few simple ideas and shapes, from which he drew countless variations, never creating the same dress twice. The pleated silk Delphos gown, patented in 1907, and the long gown and jacket were designed shortly thereafter. All were designs he repeated with subtle variation until his death in 1949... Originally intended for wear in the home as tea gowns without undergarments..."
Delphos by Fortuny - a Fortuny Delphos gown would be my pinnacle of collecting success! The secret of making the permanent pleats has been lost, although designer mary mcFadden came close. These beautiful gowns were twisted and rolled up into tiny custom silk bags!