Anatomy of the Eye "Makeup Version". 1) LIGHTEST SHADE - Apply as a base on the entire eyelid including the brow bone but avoid going all the way to the eyebrow. 2) MEDIUM SHADE - Sweep over the middle of the eyelid and blur it toward the outer edge of the eye. 3) DARKEST SHADE - Apply along the base of the lashes with a beveled precision applicator. 4) HIGHLIGHTER / ILLUMINATOR SHADE - Apply to the inner corner of the eye and below the eyebrow for a finishing touch.