Japanese-influenced in design, with water walls, a serene teahouse and infinity pool that seems to blend visually into the lake, the hotel looks across the water at a stately pagoda that Chiang built in memory of his mother on Green Dragon Mountain. Later, far out on the lake, I could still smell the intoxicating fragrance, thanks to floating islands of flowering white ginger whose roots, dangling in the water, attract game fish like the bony, sweet-fleshed president fish; anglers snare the fish in concealed bamboo cages. Touring the station's century-old processing plant, I felt the heat in the withering (roasting) room, saw the clanking old sorting machine that separates leaf from stem and dipped my head to inhale the pleasantly earthy aroma of roasted tea leaves piled in big, open-topped baskets. In one particularly rugged stretch, I passed a squad of Taiwanese soldiers carrying weapons and field packs, jogging and sweating along the single-lane highland track. In the 2.2-mile Tunnel of Nine Turns, an old stretch of road has been turned into appealing pedestrian blacktop where visitors can wander at their leisure, enjoying the gorge's 400 species of butterflies and silk-worm mulberry trees while avoiding the cars that can congeal into traffic jams on weekends.