India | A pair of anklets ~ Kadas from Jaipur | 19th century | Each anklet set with a series of twelve rose-cut diamond flowerheads on the convex edge to a gold and dark blue enamel background, the sides with floral and foliate polychrome enamel on a white ground to a central line of green and gold decoration, opens by way of screw fitting
Bracelet (kara) for a man North India, 1700–1800 Gold, rubies, spinels, diamonds, enamel. In India gems hold material, spiritual and astrological significance. In the ancient concept of samalamkara (‘being fully adorned’) for a ruler to appear dressed in auspicious gems confirmed his status and identity. Although worn for public ceremony, jewellery also had a private aspect; the beautiful decoration on the reverse would have been seen only by the wearer and his intimates.