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    The hardest part about making Vietnamese shrimp on sugar cane, called chao tom, is finding the sugar cane. The shrimp part is easy: whirl together raw shrimp and seasonings in the food processor until you get a paste (or mousse, as some recipes euphemistically call the thick mix), then pat it on pieces of sugar cane and steam it before grilling or frying. (Photo: Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times)

    Joanne Chang's mother used to make this sweet-and-spicy shrimp stir-fry all the time. When she was old enough to cook, Chang asked her mom for the recipe. "She hemmed and hawed until she finally gave it to me, revealing her secret ingredient: ketchup."