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Goings On About Town: Food & Drink

118 Pins

Goings On About Town: Food & Drink

  • 118 Pins

Noreetuh: “The kitchen’s commitment to fun in every bite extends to even the most prosaic-sounding dishes, like the chow noodles, made up of uniform slivers of bean sprouts, shiitake, and spiced tofu.” (Photograph by Eric Helgas)

Stella 34: “Of the pizzas coming out of three wood-burning ovens, the one with cauliflower, cream, and Meyer lemon is the clear winner. (Gratin should always be served on bread.)” (Photograph by Lauren Lancaster)

Stella 34 Trattoria

Cosme: “The entire endeavor might be a very delicious excuse for dessert: a corn-husk meringue with its own hashtag, possessed of an intensely milky taste from the mousse of mascarpone, cream, and corn purée that spills out like lava from its core.” (Photograph by Aaron Graubart)

SixtyFive: “The sixty-fifth floor feels a bit like a dream: wraparound terrace, gorgeous views in all directions, a silvery geometric ceiling that looks like Gehry, or Georges Braque. You can stare at the ceiling—Is it stone? Is it velvet?—if you’ve chivalrously taken the non-view side of the table, or at the Empire State Building if you haven’t.”

SixtyFive - Rockefeller Center - New York, NY

Greenpoint Fish & Lobster Co.: “On a recent Sunday, the tacos shared billing with a hearty, house-smoked-bluefish hash topped with arugula and poached eggs; thick folds of arctic-char gravlax, strewn with capers and dill and served with a Black Seed bagel; and sweet, slippery lobes of sea urchin nestled in its spiny vessel.” (Photograph by James Pomerantz)

Greenpoint Fish & Lobster Co.

La Savane: "In truth, La Savane offers a kind of pan-African cuisine, thanks to a rotation of women from Côte d’Ivoire, Guinea, Mali, and even Senegal who have overseen the kitchen. But the murals on the wall—of thatched-roofed huts and villagers tending a giant cauldron—were painted by an artist from Côte d’Ivoire, and some dishes represent that country distinctly." (Photograph by Jehad Nga)

La Savane - Central Harlem - New York, NY

Black Rabbit: "A fireplace for winter, a back garden for summer, dark-wood booths (“snugs”) with saloon doors for clandestine date-night canoodling in any season, and jovial Nerd Alert! trivia every Tuesday" (Illustration by Andrea Kalfas)

Black Rabbit - Greenpoint - Brooklyn, NY

The Library at The Public: "A restaurant and bar named for the building’s original incarnation as the Astor Library, with cozy leather armchairs and shelves of vintage scripts, props, and books."

The Library at The Public

Drunken Munkey: "A Bollywood flick plays, the churidar-outfitted waitstaff deliver railroad chicken on placemats mapping British India ... A first-time visitor chose a Wise Old Monkey (Old Monk rum, crème de banane, orange bitters) over a Lady Mountbatten (Scotch, Pamplemousse, strawberry gastrique), named for the wife of the last viceroy to India and a rumored lover of Nehru.” (Illustration by Rebecca Mock)

Drunken Munkey NYC

Nobu New York: "It’s not an unpleasant experience, to feel like a time traveller to the Clinton years, surrounded by irresistible totems of the era: molten-chocolate cake, long-haired male models, lychee Martinis." (Photograph by James Pomerantz)

Nobu - Tribeca - New York, NY

White Street: "If Ron Burgundy were real, he would bring his lady friends to this new Tribeca restaurant.” (Photograph by Eric Helgas)

White Street Restaurant

Gotham West Market: "The odds are stacked against Gotham West Market … but here's what's right: just about all of the eight venders are at the peak of food-world buzziness, and, most of the time, their outposts live up to the hype." (Photograph by Lauren Lancaster)

Gotham West Market

67 Orange Street: "On a recent Wednesday … a table full of mirthful young men in blazers and J. Crew boyfriend gingham requested the absinthe fountain, held aloft by a metallic nude figurine, as Parliament's 'Flash Light' pumped from the speakers." (Illustration by Daniel Krall)

67 Orange Street

The Blind Barber: "After dark, opposite Tomkins Square Park's northern border, a glowing barber pole twirls. Beyond, men draped with striped cloths indulge in a straight-razor shave or a haircut, plus a complimentary cocktail from the hidden bar in the back." (Illustration by Matthew Hollister)

The Blind Barber

Hometown Bar-B-Que: Chef Billy Durney has nailed a formula for New York barbecue: "mostly Texas, a touch of North Carolina and Kansas City, but very Brooklyn." (Photograph by Brian Finke)

Hometown Bar-B-Que

bibi: This candlelit, "cozy as a campfire" East Village wine bar "may encourage the telling of lurid stories—it feels like an outpost of safety and comfort, a place to celebrate your own levelheadedness." (Illustration by Matthew Hollister)

bibi - Alphabet City - New York, NY

Dimes: This Chinatown health-food café is "bright, stylish, California-tinged, with handmade salt scrub for sale, catering to moneyed vegans and their friends." (Photograph by Eric Helgas)

Dimes - Chinatown - New York, NY

The Gorbals: "In a cagelike mezzanine overlooking displays of distressed denim and handcrafted deerskin medicine bags, the Gorbals gives off the vibe of a converted Bushwick warehouse, circa 2005; the flimsy floorboards trembled in time with the bass thumping from an event below." (Photograph by Lauren Lancaster)

The Gorbals - Williamsburg - Brooklyn, NY

Champagne Charlie's: "The British music-hall comedian George Leybourne, born in 1842, came to be known as Champagne Charlie ... His exuberance for bubbly is being kept alive in the front garden of the High Line Hotel, which inhabits the former General Theological Seminary, in Chelsea." (Illustration by Daniel Krall)

Champagne Charlies

The Musket Room: "You could eat the six-course tasting menu at the Musket Room, in Nolita, without realizing that the chef, Matt Lambert, intended it as homage to his home country of New Zealand. Lambert’s art is in showing, not telling, as in a dish of cold scallops hidden under a silver cloche, to capture the smell of the manuka wood chips with which they were smoked." (Photograph by James Pomerantz)

The Musket Room

Dominie's Hoek: At this Long Island City bar, which borrows its name from the seventeenth century, "a narrow, tin-ceilinged corridor gives way to a trellised outdoor patio. ... A rangy bartender in a sriracha-branded T-shirt delivered pints of Allagash and six-dollar sangria. (Prices are gentle; pours are generous.)" (Illustration by John BrownJohn)

Dominie's Hoek - Hunters Point - Queens, NY

élan: "Technique is where élan really shines, in dishes like the striped-bass filet, with crisp skin and a deep red-wine sauce, and a smoky oolong-tea-infused duck breast, perfectly rare." (Photograph by Joaquin Trujillo)

élan - Flatiron District - New York, NY

No Name Bar: "A near-catatonic bartender served generous Negronis, Bulleit bourbon, and four-dollar Tecates . . . As the Bo Diddley song 'Let Me In' played on vinyl, one visitor noted a jar of eggs in murky liquid."(Illustration by Morgan Elliott)

No Name Bar - Williamsburg - Brooklyn, NY

Bâtard: At this Tribeca restaurant, diners find "obscene deliciousness" in a relaxed setting. (Photograph by Robin Siegel)

Bâtard - Tribeca - New York, NY

Minus 5° Ice Bar: “The ice decorations’ strong New York City themes reach their apotheosis in a tiny rock-and-roll V.I.P. room, open to everyone, whose centerpiece is a pointillist ice portrait of John Lennon.” (Illustration by Giacomo Bagnara.)

Minus 5° Ice Bar

Iris Café Store #9: This Brooklyn Heights restaurant offers a “lovely dinner service that’s conversant in the clichés of the borough—think kale croquettes—but never succumbs to them.” (Photo by James Pomerantz.)

Iris Cafe - Brooklyn Heights - Brooklyn, NY

Botanic Lab: Barman Miguel Aranda “revels in the unexpected, mixing whiskey with powdery Japanese matcha tea or adding lemongrass to frothy egg whites for a variant of the Ramos Gin Fizz.”

Barchetta: “The crudo tasting, selected by the kitchen, winds up a haze of indistinct citrus flavors, pooled in oil, punctuated with too much salt, and occasionally verging on chewy,” Amelia Lester writes.

Amelia Lester; Barchetta, in Chelsea, Searches for Its Sea Legs

Au Za’atar: At this new Lebanese restaurant in the East Village, “the kebabs are juicy, and the eggplant-based saltet al raheb, a spicy-smoky condiment, is good enough to eat by the spoonful.”

Black Seed Bagels: The shop does sandwiches “extremely well, pairing bubblegum-pink tobiko spread with smoked salmon and butter lettuce, and whitefish salad with cream cheese and sweet marinated cucumbers.”

Hannah Goldfield: Russ & Daughters Café and Black Seed Bagels

The Met’s Rooftop Martini Bar: “The view is of leafy treetops, a mostly prewar skyline, and an unobstructed celestial display worthy of Bierstadt.”

Sarah Larson: The Met’s Rooftop Martini Bar

Russ and Daughters Café: “Servers, wearing white lab coats and ties, deliver frothy egg creams and platters of sable and Gaspé Nova, glistening like candy, to marble tables in sun-washed slate-green booths.”

Hannah Goldfield: Russ & Daughters Café and Black Seed Bagels

Salon de Ning: “Most of Madame’s signature drinks involve notably generous pours and come copiously adorned with lychees and purple orchids, for added Ning. They are fragrant, if forgettable, and they seem to deviate from classic cocktails by exactly one ingredient.”

Jiayang Fan: Rooftop Cocktails at Salon de Ning, in Midtown

The Runner: “There is a selection of ‘roasts,’ including an exceptionally crusty cube of braised short rib, topped with horseradish and julienned beets. That short rib is the Runner at its best: old-fashioned tastes, lightened up with vegetables, reconceived for people who sit at desks all day and want to share.”

Bohemian Hall & Beer Garden: “Some of the superior beers now on tap are the citrusy Franziskaner Weissbier and the White Aphro, which has strong lavender notes, as servers warn men who order it. The hefty snacks remain mostly Czech and Slovak—utopenec, palacinka, smazak—but the crowd has grown more diverse.”

Tavern on the Green: “The food is beside the point, and, judging from the restaurant’s past reputation, it might be better now than ever before.”

  • Kim Tita
    Kim Tita

    Thanks for the info! I always heard Tavern was for the location & ambiance, not the food.

Sea Witch: “This nautical South Slope bar isn’t far from the famous gravestones and wild parrots of Green-Wood Cemetery; visiting both in one day makes for a pleasingly gothic surf-and-turf adventure.”

Sarah Larson: Sea Witch, a Nautical Bar in South Slope

Navy: “Depending on what time it is, the vibe ranges from extremely pleasant, during the day (open French windows, Bien Cuit croissants, and tables of people who look like they’ve lived in SoHo since before Chanel moved to Wooster Street), to cramped and contrived, at night (squint-inducing low light, Pitchfork-approved indie soundtrack, and diners who look like they can’t wait to find the next next hottest place, A.S.A.P.).”

Shauna Lyon: Navy, Adorably Tricked-Out in SoHo

Gallow Green: “The train tracks underfoot and the tattered fabric fluttering in the breeze, you must grudgingly admit, only add to the charm. On a recent chilly spring evening, bundled-up waiters handed out blankets.”

Sarah Larson: A Charming Rooftop Garden, at Gallow Green

Pickle Shack: “Many of the neighborhood’s restaurants serve complicated food ineptly, but Pickle Shack serves simple food well,” Amelia Lester writes.

Amelia Lester: Satisfying Vegetarian Sandwiches, at Pickle Shack

Congress Bar: “Sharp-elbowed nonnas shopping for Sunday supper have been replaced by freelancers toting vinyl to play on the bar’s turntable (currently trending: classic soul), which they are invited to do in off-peak hours.”

Bunker: “The chef and the sous-chef—the brothers Jimmy and Jacky Tu, who’ve cooked at Eleven Madison Park and on the Korilla BBQ food truck, respectively—are ethnically Chinese and have spent a lot of time in Vietnam, where their father lives. The bún in Bunker is the Vietnamese word for vermicelli rice noodles, a staple of authentic Vietnamese street food, which the Tus aim to re-create.”

Hannah Goldfield: Authentic Vietnamese at Bunker, in Queens

Gato: At Bobby Flay’s eclectic new NoHo restaurant, “the chef himself is cooking some amazing food, as though he’s still got something to prove.”

Gato - The New Yorker

The Writing Room: “The benign mediocrity of Elaine’s red-sauce Italian food has been replaced with middle-of-the-road newish American cuisine of the kind you might imagine Stephen Colbert would enjoy when in character.”

Refinery Hotel: The Refinery Rooftop has “a stunningly gorgeous view of the Empire State Building,” while, downstairs, Winnie’s Lobby Bar is “uncrowded, friendly, and soothing—qualities that midtown office workers have learned not to hope for—and the absurd drinks on offer turn out to be terrific.”

Sarah Larson: Two Bars at the Refinery Hotel, in Midtown
  • Loretta Di Vita
    Loretta Di Vita

    I know you enjoy roof-top time-outs.

Little Lamb: “The menu offers a handful of excellent things that arrive ready to eat—perfectly flaky scallion pancakes; cumin-rubbed, lusciously fatty lamb ribs ‘grilled until the tasty come out’—but none are quite as satisfying as what comes out of the pot.”

Royal Palms Shuffleboard Club: “Cocktails are named for legends of the game—the Earl Ball is made with Old Forester bourbon, fresh pineapple and lemon juice, ginger, and black-pepper syrup, and is as sweet as can be; the Jim Allen includes Herradura tequila, orange liqueur, and mezcal.”

Telepan Local: Amelia Lester on the Tribeca restaurant: “It’s hard to know how much ironic distance was intended from TGI Fridays when Bill Telepan, the Upper West Side’s undisputed king of the greenmarket, put together the menu for his downtown venture, but you might wish there’d been more.”

Telepan Local - The New Yorker

Narcissa: “There’s nothing remotely rustic about the crowd, many of whom seem to be V.I.P.s, chatting matter-of-factly about meetings at the Vatican and photo shoots in Qatar ... But when it comes to the food, the grange concept rings true.”

Contra: Amelia Lester on the Lower East Side restaurant: “Wines with nicknames are a sure sign that you’re dealing with the cool kids, and that’s exactly how eating at Contra feels: sometimes it’s too clever by half, but sometimes it’s thrilling.”

Wallflower: “The cocktail list is heavy on brand names and obscure ingredients (bergamot juice, allspice dram) and inevitably requires smartphone-assisted navigation, yet the resulting creations are often one-note.”

William Barnacle Tavern: Nearly two dozen varieties of absinthe, the bar’s featured drink, are served in the traditional manner: “icy water is poured over a torched sugar cube, dissolving it in a reservoir of the verdant liquor.”

All'Onda: “Who can resist arancini? The rice in the fried bite-size spheres at All’Onda is mixed not with the classic Fontina cheese but with jet-black squid ink. They are garnished with scoops of fresh uni, resulting in a rapid progression of sensations—creamy, crunchy, oozy—and then they’re gone.”

Beast of Bourbon: “There are more than forty beers on tap and two hundred-plus whiskeys, ryes, and bourbons—from Catdaddy corn whiskey, which tastes like bubblegum cough syrup, to James E. Pepper 1776 fifteen-year-old bourbon, reminiscent of oak and toasted caramel.”

Emma Allen: Whiskey and BBQ at Beast of Bourbon, in Bed-Stuy

Foragers City Table: “For those city-dwellers who live in apartments without kitchen counter space, it’s the highest compliment to say that you would like to eat at a particular restaurant every Tuesday night. Foragers Table is such a place.”

Amelia Lester: Farm-to-Table Freshness at Foragers City Table

Betony: “If you live for people-watching, and for floor-length mink coats, and for lines like ‘I don’t want to be on the family dole,’ you’ll be in Heaven at Betony. If you disdain those things, you’ll have no trouble tuning them out, thanks to the spectacular new-American food, distinctive cocktails, and impeccable service.”

Betony - The New Yorker
  • Jacob Freeze
    Jacob Freeze

    Isn't this the place where I puked on the bar? I heard somebody say "distinctive cocktails," and then I barfed, and I barfed, and I barfed, and I barfed!

  • Jacob Freeze
    Jacob Freeze

    And just when I got over the first nauseating cliché, somebody had to say "impeccable service!" So I barfed and I barfed and I barfed and I barfed all over the New Yorker Magazine and their drool-bucket restaurant reviewer.

Attaboy: The “reduced-frills speakeasy” on the Lower East Side has no menu; you suggest a mood or a flavor and the bartenders improvise.

Attaboy - The New Yorker

Empire Diner: Amelia Lester on the restaurant’s patty melt, which is “refined but not annoyingly so, ... while also insuring the correct balance of crunch (toasted rye) and ooze (Swiss cheese and caramelized onions)”

Elixir Lounge: Marilyn Sulay and Lidia Jimenez, the trans women owners of this L.G.B.T. bar in Astoria, “rehash the dark boudoir décor of Manhattan and Brooklyn speakeasies, and then heap on the frills: high-backed tufted banquettes, laser lights, and TVs playing music videos that are out of synch, by decades, with the d.j.’s Beyoncé and dancified Lana Del Rey.”

Anna Altman: Signature Cocktails at Elixir Lounge, in Astoria

Saul: Amelia Lester on the new-American restaurant situated in the back of the Brooklyn Museum: “Maybe it’s the square dinner plates, or their tableau-like composition, but there’s a generic, business-class quality to the eating experience. When the strawberry-balsamic ice cream and the baked Alaska arrive, the sense of being in a Ritz-Carlton in the late nineteen-nineties is fully realized.”

Saul - The New Yorker

Long Island Bar: With its Art Deco bar and red-and-cream booths, original terrazzo floors, and acoustical-tile ceiling, it “has a casual authenticity that starts with the neon and continues inside.”

Fung Tu: Hannah Goldfield on the Lower East Side Chinese restaurant: “Intention versus outcome is a problem across the menu at Fung Tu. But the dishes that work—like those duck-stuffed dates, and a plate of impossibly silky roasted beet slices daubed with salty fermented tofu—really work, and Wu’s ideas could go a long way toward redefining American Chinese food.”

Rotisserie Georgette -- Amelia Lester on the Upper East Side restaurant: “Diverging from the restaurant’s signature dish is not encouraged by the waitstaff, many of whom are French and have strong and abundant opinions on how the meal should proceed. It’s easiest to sink into one of the red banquettes, or a high-backed carriage chair up front, and surrender to the subtle opulence of the experience.”

Rotisserie Georgette - The New Yorker

Wise Men -- “The bar’s interior is retro L.E.S.: red-and-black, geometric, boozy, meaty, with lamps that resemble chess players in ‘Through the Looking Glass.’ ... On weekends, the regulars—editors, artists, locals—dance to records spun by AndrewAndrew, Jah Cousteau, or, recently, Nick Zinner, from the Yeah Yeah Yeahs.”

Black Mountain Wine House: The cabinlike saloon in Carroll Gardens, was “designed with two places in mind: Stowe, Vermont, and Jackson Hole, Wyoming.”

Café Nadery: “It’s owned by a collective of some twenty Iranian-Americans, and pays homage to an Iranian landmark. The renowned Naderi Café, built in 1928 in Tehran, was the place where writers and philosophers went to hobnob in its mid-twentieth-century heyday.”

Shauna Lyon: A Persian Cafe in Greenwich Village

Burp Castle: “In the nineties, the bartenders wore monks’ robes and played a soundtrack of Gregorian chants; now it’s more of a reform situation, allowing for jazz and civvies.”

Khe-Yo: The cuisine at this Laotian restaurant is “similar to Thai food in its careful balance of sweet and spicy, but with the sour, funky element turned up a notch.”

Amelia Lester: Savory Laotian Cuisine at Khe-Yo, in Tribeca

Hannah Goldfield on Aita: “It’s the ultimate neighborhood restaurant, the type of place where the food hits the sweet spot of being good (not to mention affordable) enough to warrant regular visits by locals but not so outstanding or in vogue that those locals find themselves vying for space with the destination-eating hordes.”

Hannah Goldfield: Uncomplicated Italian at Aita, in Clinton Hill

Grace: “As a counterpoint to the abiding masculinity of the pub scene, the owners named the place for Grace O’Malley, the sixteenth-century Irish pirate and folk hero, and commissioned the city’s fiercest female bartenders to design cocktails.”

Sushi Nakazawa: In this West Village sushi restaurant, “everyone gets the same thing: omakase. There is no soy sauce for dipping; only freshly pickled ginger and a wet cloth, so you can eat the traditional way, with your fingers. But this is not a hushed temple—Nakazawa starts cracking jokes before the first piece of salmon hits a granite slab.”

Sushi Nakazawa - The New Yorker

The King Cole: The menu at this St. Regis hotel bar “features six kinds of Bloody Mary, which the King Cole claims to have invented in the nineteen-thirties. They call the original the Red Snapper, and it’s spicy, irresistible, and strong.”

Piora: Amelia Lester writes about the dedication and technique at Chris Cipollone’s West Village restaurant: “Dishes are sometimes so involved that the waiters seem to be reciting soliloquies rather than specials.”

Bar Centrale: Amelia Lester reviews the hidden theatre-district bar: “Past heavy blue velvet curtains is a quiet drawing room, run with such discretion that you’ll likely never realize how many of the other drinkers are show-biz luminaries.”

Bar Centrale - The New Yorker

The Lambs Club: A three-year-old bar and restaurant that feels like a shrine to things past: “What the Lambs Club does best befits its throwback vibe: the boozy business lunch ... Order the pastrami sandwich and you’ll find a small army of those dapper waiters at your service: one to present the glistening slab of almost baconlike Wagyu beef, one to carve it tableside, and one to assemble it on rye with your choice of condiments.”

Hannah Goldfield: The Lambs Club, in Midtown
  • Lou Hobgood
    Lou Hobgood

    Let's add this to the short list. Mary Nevin Gauthier

The Leadbelly: “The cocktails are unfussy and topnotch, classier versions of classics ... Depending on the evening, you can sip them to the dulcet tones of a live bossa-nova trio or the punchy arrangements of a ragtime pianist.”

Charlie Bird: “The food is comforting, with some ingenious additions, like uni in a creamy duck-egg spaghetti, and mint and pistachios in a lemony farro salad. But Charlie Bird is expensive—paying less than a hundred dollars a person is difficult.”

Charlie Bird - The New Yorker

In the early eighties, Johnny Cash and his wife, June, spent a quarter of their time in an apartment on Central Park South. Their youngest son, John Carter Cash, recalls their fondness for Carnegie Deli, where “they’d always order lox, cheese blintzes, and matzo-ball soup.” (Sketch by Jorge Colombo.)

Carbone: Nick Paumgarten on the Greenwich Village Italian restaurant: “The portions and the prices are as formidable as the pretense and the patter. The garlic bread is good, and you eat too much of it, so that the veal chop, served with a marsala sauce, is not so much ‘abracadabra’ as it is ‘my Lord.’”

Los Tacos No. 1: When the guy behind the register at this tiny Chelsea Market taquería “insists that your quesadilla especial be filled with carne asada, it’s wise to heed his advice.”

Corvo Bianco: Amelia Lester on the modern Italian bar and restaurant: “Judging by the preponderance of women in halter tops and nervy solo guys checking their Blackberries, Corvo Bianco is a favorite choice for meet-ups, perhaps because it’s one of the few places in the neighborhood approximating the high-decibel, hostess-table experience of a downtown boîte.”

Amelia Lester dines at Atrium: “The menu doesn’t offer the kind of casual fare the residents of this restaurant-starved area might want to eat on a Tuesday night: there’s no burger, for instance, but there is a veal-chop special, served with pre-recession quantities of shaved truffle.”

Eleven Madison Park: John Colapinto writes about the legendary Flatiron restaurant: “When you step through Eleven Madison Park's revolving door, you see not a maître d' behind a lectern but a greeter, who shakes your hand as if welcoming you into his home. The casualness is illusory.” (Photo by Zach Gross.)