tacked herringbone stitch: fig 5
Viking kaftan detail. Site has lots of pics of other costume with interesting colour combinations.
Herringbone Stitch Picture
Ravelry: lnrskye's Simple tablet weaving 10 cards
Top or hem of a skirt?
blackwork chemise ( look at the embroidery on pleated cuff.)
Pleating Viking linen under dress
Card Weaving w/pattern